⇦ my bratwursts  

welcome

eridox index
 
the sausage link
message board
 
goodies for
your woofer
 
wellness & nutrition
consultations
 
breeding
consultations
 

eridox

about me
 
my hot dogs
hotdog stats
adults

my bratwursts
bratwurst stats
puppies
 
frankfurter fotos
 

general info

history of wieners
 
teckel terms
 
coats, colors,
& patterns
 
genetic disorders
 

of interest

located traits
& disorders
 
current
genetics studies
 
genetic &
phenotypic testing
 
unrelated
book research
 

   other resources

dachsie links
 
site references
 
contact me
 




about my breedings
  • Progressing with every litter, it is my intention to breed true dachshunds.  Therefore, if you are just looking for a deadheaded toy lapdog — one without a terrier personality as well as terrier drives, which need training and work if possible — I would encourage you to do some research on other types of dogs to determine what would be a better fit for you.

  • I have between 1 and 4 planned breedings each year.  If you do not see the pup/adult you are looking for available at the moment, you are welcome to contact me to see if I might have the right one for you in the future.  (Or, if I don't/won't have what you're interested in, I may be able to recommend to you another reputable breeder somewhere in the country.)  You are encouraged to specify what temperament aspects, drives, structural type(s), size(s), coat(s), color(s), and/or pattern(s) you are interested in on the application/waiting list form.

  • Also of note, I normally don't have medium/large-sized standards (dachs size), kaninchen size, or longhairs.  Therefore if you are interested in one of these, please understand you may need to wait a few months or a year for the right pup for you to come along.  I never have wirehairs.

  • All my pups' parents that I own are tested and evaluated for their IVDD-I (the back problem that affects dachshunds) status, and I am the only breeder I know of in North America who does this, even though up to 20% of dachshunds need surgeries in the thousands of dollars to fix their paralysis from this disorder.  My goal in the next year, maybe two, is to be able to guarantee all my puppies against IVDD-I grades moderate and severe, meaning there will be little chance they will ever "go down in the back".

  • I spend a good deal of time with each of my puppies to evalute their temperaments, drives, structures, and health, and I spend a good deal of time getting them out and about and socialized.  If they need special attention in any way, it is provided to them to ensure they go to their new families in the best mental and physical condition possible.

  • The price you pay for one of my puppies is dirt cheap considering the time and testing I invest in them.  Yes, my pups are more expensive than randomly-bred pups you can find in the paper, but they are also less expensive than most randomly-bred pet store puppies from puppy mills.
  • who I sell to
  • No pup will be shipped via air (≈$285 extra) before it is ≈12 weeks old.  (Of note, though, there might be an occasional pup/adult I will not be willing to ship at all if I do not believe its temperament is suited to shipping.)  If possible, I prefer a new owner drive or fly in to pick their pup/adult up — that way I can meet them, they can meet me and my family and the puppy's family, and the travel isn't quite so hard on the pup.

  • I prefer to sell to buyers in the US and, if one can drive to a US border airport for pickup, Canada, simply because of the lengthy rabies quarantines that apply to many other countries.  However, if you live elsewhere and are set on having one of my wienerchildren, I may be willing/able to work with you.  The main issues are that, for a pup, I might have to keep it until it is up to seven months old for rabies purposes (this is an extra fee, and sometimes I just may not wish or be able to do this), and all purchase, housing/keeping, transportaion, and other related funds must be paid for up-front, ideally well in advance.

  • Returning customers are very welcome, and I do give a discount.  However, I do require three things:  that the guided evaluation of their last dachsie from me is completed and returned, and assurance that they have made reasonable efforts to socialize (get out and about in public places on occasion) and to train (house, crate, and the most basic obedience) said dachsie.

  • I do not sell to brokers, pet shops, or large-scale breeders.  I will only sell directly to pet owners who love dachshunds and likely, in the future, also to a few reputable, small-scale breeders when I have a pup I think is worthy of being bred.

  • I also reserve the right to not sell to any person for any reason at any time.
  • pricing, deposits, & payment
  • I may not know more than a general ballpark price (the average pet price currently being $550-$750) of my puppies until they are at least 6 weeks old, as I determine an individual puppy's price based mainly on my perceived quality of its temperament, drives, health, and structure (much of which can't be known until the pup is a couple of months old), on my perceived quality of the parents, as well as on market value.  The size, coat type, colors, and patterns may play a role in my pricing (longhairs lower, quality kaninchens higher, quality dilutes and creams higher, etc.), and the sex plays no role in my pricing.  (The boys are just as good as the girls! :) )

  • Deposit/balance policy:  Because of the incredible amount of trouble I had in 2009 with initially normal-seeming people who subsequently strung me along for weeks and even months saying they want a particular puppy and then dropping off the face of the planet, I unfortunately find myself forced to switch to a deposit system.  I will now be requiring:

    - a $150 non-refundable* deposit received by the time the puppy is 6 weeks of age
    - the balance in full (refundable) received by the time the puppy is 10 weeks of age.

  • If the puppy is over 6 weeks old and has no deposit on it, the deposit along with the balance can be paid at once in one amount.

    * The following are the only reasons I would refund a non-refundable deposit:  if the specific puppy you have put a deposit on develops an issue (structure-, health-, temperament-, personality-, or drive-wise) you were not expecting and either of us think the puppy therefore wouldn't fit in best with your family, if the specific puppy you have put a deposit on passes away, or if the specific puppy you want I instead choose to keep back as a loaner.

  • I take cash in person (for deposits and balances), I take U.S. postal money orders by mail (for deposits and/or for the balance in advance of shipping), and I take personal cheques in person or by mail (ONLY for deposits and for balances well in advance, and must be the EXACT amount).  Because of so many scams going on, I will take no other form of payment.

  • All monies must be paid and cleared, and my copy of the contract must be signed and returned to me before a buyer can collect his/her pup/adult.
  • purchase inclusions
  • the woofer! 

  • the neutering (castration for males, ovariohysterectomy for females)

  • a health record showing:  that at the time of purchase, the pup/adult is healthy and up-to-date on its wormings and shots; when the shots were administered; when the pup/adult was vet-checked; if any abnormalities were found; when the neutering was done; and the contact information of my veterinarian

  • a contract that includes:  guarantees of breeder, including health guarantees; title reďmbursement info; guarantees of buyer; a first-right-of-refusal clause; etc.

  • toys, treats, premium transition food, a toothbrush, a bottle of the best shampoo there is, and, for longhairs, a slicker brush & stripper comb

  • information on proper and suggested mental and physical care of the pup/adult

  • an implanted microchip and paid microchip registration form

  • an electronic version of the pedigree

  • an AKC registration form (or, if already registered, an AKC registration transfer form)

  • one free training session and future training sessions at a discount (woofer's parent/family must schedule to come to my home, however)

  • lifetime phone/e-mail support for any questions regarding the handling or care of the pup/adult
  • health guarantees
    For each pup from one of my breedings I also include the following guarantees* unless, in the case of disorders, previously known about and thereby already factored into the contract and purchase price:

    diseases
  • coccidia:  within 3 days of receipt; treatment refund up to $25
  • giardia:  within 3 days of receipt; treatment refund up to $25
  • parvo:  within 7 days of receipt; full treatment refund, exchange (if possible/practical), or refund + treatment cost if the worst should happen

  • disorders
    (disorders are genetic/congenital and do not cover/include environmental causes/triggers)
  • CDA:  partial to full refund for pet dilutes 6m-4y of age that develop recurring bacterial skin problems, as long as proper care as outlined by me has been given
  • moderate to severe cardiac disorders:  full refund under 1y of age
  • severe neuro-muscular disorders:  full refund under 5y of age
  • severe patellar luxation:  full refund under 2y of age

  • * Each assumed disease must be conclusively determined with proof in writing by your veterinarian.  Each assumed disorder must be conclusively determined as being of genetic origin with proof in writing by two veterinarians, one of them of my choosing/approval.
    puppy timeline
    The following is the typical schedule my puppies follow.  Depending on local events I may want to socialize pups at or depending on other factors, the first shot might be given a little earlier and/or the neutering might be a little earlier.  Unless I detect a problem with a pup, each pup only receives one vet visit, which occcurs at the same visit the pup and/or his/her littermates are neutered.

  • birth:  about 60-61 days after conception
  • any time:  first veterinary check
  • 10-21 days:  eyes open
  • 3+ weeks:  mental and physical evalutaions performed by me
  • 4-5 weeks:  first socialization visits
  • 8.5 weeks:  first shot (CAV2, CDV, CPiV, & CPV)
  • 10.5 weeks:  neutering (if going as a pet only)
  • new home:  any time after 9 weeks (if going as a loan-adoptee or potential breeder), any time after 10.5 weeks (if going as a pet only).
  • 1 year:  guided evaluation completed by owner and sent to me

  • All pups receive a number of wormings.  The veterinary checkup includes but not limited to heart, ears, mouth, patellas, and coat/skin; and at least one set of shots (adenovirus-2, distemper, parainfluenza, and parvovirus) before they leave my hands.  One or more pups from any litter may also be vision tested and/or hearing tested before a final decision is made on whether any such pups are kept back or to whom those pups will be sold.
    available extras
    If you would like any of these extras for a puppy you intend to get from me, they must be paid for (in cash in person or via personal cheque in the mail) in advance.

  • $35 - each additional, standard veterinary checkup
  • $40 - phenotypic test:  eye checkup (including CERF registration if desired) by a veterinary ophthalmologist
  • $90 - phenotypic test:  BAER hearing test by a veterinary neurologist
  • $40 - genetic test:  cone-rod dystrophy (CRD-cord1) genetic test
  • $40 - genetic test:  juvenile-onset neuronal ceroid lipofuscinosis genetic test
  • $60 - genetic test:  longhair, curl, furnishings, chocolate, dilute, points, or ESPS genetic tests (for breeders only)
  • $14 - product:  EQyss 16oz Premier Conditioner rinse & detangler
  • $13 - product:  EQyss 16oz Rehydrant Spray
  • pet info & restrictions
  • I most likely will not sell a pup/adult to a potential owner/family that already has more than three dogs and/or cats, as I prefer that the pup/adult will be able to receive personal attention from his/her new family and ideally be worked if at all possible.

  • Any pup/adult sold as a pet will be neutered before it goes to its new home.  No exceptions.  If you are considering buying a pet puppy from me and would like information on early neutering in dogs, please feel free to contact me.

  • Any pup/adult sold as a pet will be expected to live indoors with its human family [and not simply in a crate 24/7, tethered to a tree, or allowed to roam the streets].  No exceptions.

  • An incentive reďmbursement of up to $100 will be granted upon the dog receiving an obedience, earthdog, field, tracking, agility, or racing title from the AKC or UKC or similar-quality foreign registry.  This demonstrates that you have taken the time to work with, train, and communicate with your woofer which strengthens the bond between you.

  • If you understand and agree to the above and are still interested in acquiring a puppy or adult from me, please fill out an application.  (You need to do so even if I have met you before online so that I can keep track of who has inquired about what.)  I try to do my best to screen any potential home for a dog of mine, and this form comprises some of the screening.  Please note that I will not sell/trade/give away the information you provide in the form to any outside party.
  • breeder info & restrictions
  • I will individually register with the AKC and/or UKC any intact pup/adult I sell, and I will choose its registered name.

  • An incentive reďmbursement of up to $100 will be granted upon the dog getting an obedience, earthdog, field, tracking, agility, or racing title from the AKC or UKC or similar-quality foreign registry.

  • Any breeder wanting an intact pup/adult must provide proof of patella testing (minimum of 14 months of age); spine testing (minimum of 22 months of age); and temperament, drive, and/or work testing for all of her breeding dachshunds.  If she cannot provide proof of these tests for each of her breeding dogs, I will not be able to sell her a pup.

  • Any breeder wanting an intact pup/adult must also provide an explanation of why she wants the pup (work-wise or competition-wise and breeding-wise) and what specific goals she has for her breeding program as a whole.  If she cannot provide an answer that encompasses temperament, drives, health, and structure, I will not be able to sell her an intact pup.

  • These requirements are to help ensure my dogs do not end up in simple puppy production operations.  If you understand and agree to the above and are still interested in acquiring a puppy or adult from me, please fill out an application.  (You need to do so even if I have met you before online so that I can keep track of who has inquired about what.)  I try to do my best to screen any potential home for a dog of mine, and this form comprises some of the screening.  Please note that I will not sell/trade/give away the information you provide in the form to any outside party.


  • Thanks for reading!  :)


    Unless otherwise noted:
    All text, images, & audio, unless noted, are copyright by Lisa J. Emerson & may not be used or reproduced without express permission.
    All TSL posts are copyright by their respective authors and may not be used or reproduced without their express permission.
    All pictures are copyright by their respective authors and may not be used or reproduced without their express permission.